Carports & Metal Buildings FAQ's
This measures the thickness of the sheet metal on the roof and sides. 29 gauge is standard thickness and 26 gauge is heavy duty 26 gauge panels are more rigid and and less likely to dent during a hail storm. The majority of buildings we sell are built with 29 gauge. If you live in an area of high winds or heavy snow falls, you should consider the 26 gauge. Please contact us for the exact upgrade cost on the building you want. In many cases the upgrade to 26 gauge sheeting is about 10% more than standard 29 gauge. Please note that not all of our buildings in all of our areas are available in 26 gauge.
The regular screw heads are galvanized which is a grayish color and are treated against rust. Colored screws have a screw head that is the same color as the building metal. Some people think this gives the building a classy and more finished look . This upgrade is completely cosmetic. We will be happy to quote you the upcharge for your building.
This is a difference in the thickness of the metal tubing which is basic structure of the building. 14 gauge is the most economical and the tubing size is 2.5″ x 2.5″ square. 12 gauge is thicker and stronger and is 2.25″ x 2.25″ square. Both 12 gauge and 14 gauge can be certified to certain wind and snow ratings.
If you live in an area with heavy snowfall or high winds you may want to consider the 12 framing. Also taller structures such as RV covers will have more structural strength in 12 gauge. This option somewhat depends on your needs and budget. We will be happy to quote your building either way and you can decide which you want.
These styles are good, better, and best.
Regular style – This style has the rounded roof shape instead of the A frame type truss. The truss is bent rather than having a welded joint. The metal runs horizontally meaning that the ribs on the sheeting go from front to back rather than up and down as they would on most larger structures. The sheet metal is what joins the building together as there are no other pieces that run between the trusses. This style does not have the hat channel, the rides cap, or the eave side trim.
This is the most economical style and is good for many applications especially where there is little snow fall or high winds. It can be certified to the same wind and snow ratings as the other roof styles. The longest we can do this style is 36′ due to potential leakage if we try to overlap the panels.
Boxed eave style – This style also has the horizontal roof panels, but has the A frame look. It has the welded truss where it transitions to the leg and boxed eave trim for a nice finished look. It does not have the hat channels to support the roof or ridge cap at the roof peak.
This style is a good option for an economical building that has more of a standard A Frame look. The longest we can do this style is 36′ due to potential leakage if we were to overlap the metal.
Vertical Style – The best we sell. It has hat channels under the sheet metal that forms a frame work that adds rigidity to the building and provides a way to mount the roof panels on vertically. This makes for a stronger structure and water, snow and ice will exit the building easier.
If you only want the best, or if you are in an area of high wind or heavy snowfall then the vertical style should be your choice. We can make the sides vertical as well for an upcharge. Any building longer than 36′ must be in the vertical style.
Yes, in most cases, but an extra labor fee will apply. Please describe your situation to us and we can quote a price on your situation.
In most cases, yes, but an upcharge will apply. We do not install on floating docks, or on walls taller than 3′ high.
The site must be level within 3″ side to side and 3″ back to back. If the crew needs to do extra work to level the site, a labor fee will apply. If a return trip is required, a fee will be charged.
A concrete pad must not be smaller than the frame of the building. For example a 20′ x 31′ building would require a pad that is a minimumof 20′ x 30′. Be sure the pad is square so the building fits on it exactly. Some localities such as the State of Florida may have certain requirements for the pad as well. You should inquire about your specific area prior to site preparation.
Please be sure the pad is free from debris.
Have all underground utilities such as telephone, electric, gas, and water lines marked.
A fee may apply if the installers vehicle cannot drive close to the installation site.
This depends upon your available space and the width of your vehicles. It is best to measure your vehicles remembering to allow enough space to open the doors without hitting the adjacent vehicle. Below are some general guidelines to follow.
12′ = Single Car, truck, or RV
18′ = 2 Compact Cars
20′ = 2 Mid-size Cars
22′ = 2 Full size cars, Trucks, or SUV
24′ = 2 Full or Over sized Cars, or trucks
30′ = 3 Mid-sized Cars of Trucks
Bear in mind that you may someday need a larger vehicle and a therefore a larger structure to park it in.
All buildings up to 40′ wide start at 6′ side wall and can be made up to 16′ tall. The height dimension measures the height of the leg at the side of the building. The actual clearance inside at the peak is usually at least 2′ taller than the leg. For example 20′ wide x 8′ H vertical style carport would have an inside clearance of 10′ and 6″. Please note that if you decide to close a gable or add a garage door the clearance will be less. Also the braces at the side that go between the leg and the truss will cause you to lose some height at the side wall. Once we know the exact style and size that you want, we will be able to tell you how much actual clearance you will have.
Regular style and Boxed Eave style are available up to 36′ long. We do not usually go longer because of potential leakage issues at the seams where the metal overlaps. We can do the Vertical style in virtually any length.
At this time we do not offer this option. We can do frame-outs on the sides or ends and you can install these types of doors if you wish.
All garage doors are available in white. Some of the uncertified doors are available in Pewter Gray, Brown, Green, Barn Red, and Beige also.
Absolutely. An extra frame-out charge will apply. Also the building will need to be at least one foot taller than the door to allow for enough space for the door to roll up.
Yes. This can give an added protection from wind or snow. Panels are 3′ wide and in some cases we can split a panel as well. If the panels come down to where a person can reach them, we recommend a J channel to cover the sharp edge and give a nice finished appearance. We recommend any building over 10′ tall bring at least one sheet down on the side for extra protection. This also adds strength from front to back.
Many times RV Covers use side panels for the extra protection they afford against the sun and precipitation.
Walk in doors are 36′ x 80″. Windows are 30″ x 30″ and 30″ x 36″ and are not insulated. Doors and windows can be placed almost anywhere in the building. If you want to install your own windows, we can make an opening for you.
Width x Height. A 10′ x 8′ garage door would be 10′ wide by 8′ high.
Not at this time. We can make a frame out in the building and you can get a company that specializes in overhead doors to install a door with an opener.
Yes, both are. When we talk of a vertical building we are referring to the roof panels. Vertical sides and ends have an additional up charge. Buildings with a vertical roof and vertical sides look very much like standard post frame metal building and some like that look better. We can quote this option for you easily.
Yes, we call this “wainscot” or ” deluxe vertical”. When the sides are horizontal, generally there is no charge to make the sides in two different colors. When the sides are vertical then a charge does apply. Two tone sides can add a touch of class to the look of your building
The opening has an 2 angled pieces at the top of the opening making for 45 degree angles rather than a simple square opening. This is done solely for looks.
The gable is the top triangular piece (on Boxed and Vertical style) the covers the end of the bow or truss. Closing this gives more protection and a more finished look. We can certify the gables and make the metal run vertically also. Closing the gable makes a nice square opening which would be easier close in in the future. Bear in mind that closing the gable will reduce the amount of clearance in the end of the building.
It is the same as a closed gable except that the metal extends down lower than a regular gable. The primary use for an extended gable is when extra panels are used on the sides of the building and the gable is extended down to meet the bottom of the side panels.
In most cases we offer double bubble and woven R-17 or 2″ Fiberglass. Contact us for a quote on what this would cost for your building. Another option is to get someone local to insulate with spray foam.
Yes, but the amount saved is so small that most people elect to let our professional installers do the job. We highly recommend that we do the installation.
Yes. We believe our standards a sufficient for most applications, but a building can be made stronger with the supports placed oftener.
We have a physical lot and also sell on line. Because we deal in buildings and carports day in and day out, we are much more familiar with the buildings and options than most side line dealers. We can answer most questions immediately without consulting resource material. Our prices are very competitive and we give priority to good customer service.
Yes. These are often used to cover a picnic area or placed beside a pool. We can close a room in for a storage area or dressing room.
If you represent a park or municipality, we can quote you a price if you know the exact dimensions you want. These can be certified to certain wind or snow load requirements and raise seal plans are available if necessary.
Several factors determine this including where you are located, time of year, weather conditions, and size of building. Please contact us for the most up – to – date information. While we do not guarantee a certain lead time, we will give you an honest estimate.
Due to winter weather, we can not guarantee orders placed after Oct. 1 will be installed prior to Spring in the following states – IL, IN, MD, OH, PA, WV.
A certified building has been certified to certain wind (140 MPH for example) and snow load (30 lbs @ sq. ft. for example) ratings by a professional engineer. Please note that this is not a warranty, it simply means an engineer has calculated what the building will withstand. The State of Florida and some other local municipalities require certification. Please check with your local inspection department for the specifications for you area. A copy of the engineered plans will be supplied upon request. Raised seal plans can be purchased if necessary.
Certification generally include a tighter screw pattern on the roof and mobile home anchors (on dirt or gravel installations). Concrete installations use wedge anchors.
It depends upon the installation surface. Ground or gravel installations come standard with metal rebar pins. On these surfaces, we highly recommend purchasing double helix (auger type) anchors like is used to secure mobile homes . Concrete installations use concrete wedge anchors and asphalt installations use anchors made for asphalt surfaces.